Sabyachachi Muherjee, is a young designer from Kolkata who, has been making waves in the design circles in India. With 3 major awards from NIFT Kolkata - The Best Design collection, the Ritu Kumar award for excellence in design and the Viewers Choice award at the NIFT Confluence - Sabyasachi ventured out with his own label. His winning the `Times of India - British Council`s most outstanding designer of India` award entailed an internship in London, after which Sabyasachi honed his skills and started supplying to Tony boutiques in India.
Sabyasachi`s design philosophy is the personalized imperfection of the human hand. Deserts, gypsies, prostitutes and antique textiles have been a lifelong inspiration for this designer who believes that clothes should just be an extension of one`s intellect.
Currently the Sabyasachi label retails at Carma & Ogaan, New Delhi, Melange & Ensemble, Mumbai, Espee & Intrigue, Kolkata and Origins and Oorja, Hyderabad.
Lakme Fashion Week`s sixth day started off with an intellectually whimsical collection of Sabyascahi that created the fun idiom for Indian fashion. Stunning in its use of exquisite colour mixes, extraordinary fabric ornamentation and unusual silhouettes. Bohemian chic was reinterpreted for Indian silhouettes with patch skirts, churidars, tunics, blouses, jackets and sarees. The colours were rich, contrasting yet completely harmonious in their appeal- a range of fuchsias, oranges, peacock greens, reds, henna, and turquoise. Brocades, duppioni, tanchois, antique saree-borders, and bandhanis were creatively assembled.
Sabyasachi`s work resounds with a sense of utter freshness and intelligence. The collection was inspired, in part, by the streets of Victorian London and Calcutta, defined by Sabyasachi`s ethos of cross cultural fashion and his desire to portray a sense of innocence. The silhouettes were varied and multi-faceted. Often layered or oversized. Off the shoulder cotton knits over more skimpy body hugging knits; long knit cardigans over tiered skirts; ruched and smocked detached sleeves worn with sleeveless vests or camisoles. Dhoti-like pants caught at the ankle with buckled straps on the guys, or under short, tailored western jackets by the girls; saris were so stylized that they were barely recognizable. Guys wore long kurtas over pajama pants cropped to the lower calf. Otherwise mens` trousers were straight, wide and ankle lengths. Skirts flowed long, often paneled. The collection was accessorized with boxing gloves, oversized swagbags, crocheted shoulder bags, tiffin carriers gold plimsoles, extra long scarves.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee showcased an Old World charm in his collection. Frail velvet tops with puff sleeves, rose embroidered saris in georgettes, crochet shifts, layered and gathered cotton skirts with frayed ruffle hems, jackets with appliqués and feathered ribbons. There were also patchwork blouses with duchess satin sashes, printed and crinkled chiffon tunics, sueded waist-coats, and A-line skirts with pom-pom embellishments constitute the separates, often getting layered into one ensemble in Sabyasachi`s signature style. He uses muted and subtle colours of faded orange, lapis lazuli, henna, tea rose, rust and berry in the solids, and multiple antique floral wallpaper prints that gently merge into one another.
Known for his styling and layering Sabyasachi delivered a collection with all the traits expected from him-hand printing, block printing and modern versions of the saree. Large sleeves and oversized shirts gave these designs a floating feel. Muddy colors dominated. It was a very romantic look from the designer.
The Theme of the Collection was the snail: A gentle calm and quietness permeated through Sabyasachi`s new resort collection, as fashion worldwide settled down into a cleaner, fresher mood. Painstakingly tedious processes of subtle texturing, laborious processes of mud and discharge printing, obsolete techniques of embroidery, classic couture construction processed and controlled volume in silhouettes injected an air of old world charm to this otherwise modern collection. In an era of super production, this collection was all about slowing down. Its was not about being old fashioned, nor was it about dropping out. It was about being quietly assertive and being able to choose a less chaotic and perhaps better way of life.